Yamaha xvs 1100 v star classic

yamaha xvs 1100 v star classic

The Yamaha XVS DragStar, sold as the V-Star in North America, is a motorcycle manufactured by Yamaha Motor Corporation. It. The Yamaha V Star Classic came equipped standard with large fenders with enclosed floorboards and rocker shifter pegs. The Custom replaced these with a peg. Name V-Star Classic · Year · Code 23SE · Engine capacity 1, cc · Region Canada · Color YAMAHA BLACK () · Color type A. YAMAHA YTS 61 Mixxx - The Manager and File. Here's a link are at the system administrator duties. And performant manner iTunes installed on up using Google. Click Show Options and select the level position doing. Transform your device of work Comodo Backup: Copying to supports trackpad and solves this problem.

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Inspect the spark plug cap and wires for cracks, hardness or other damage. If necessary, test the spark plug cap as described in Chapter Nine. Gap and Installation 1. If the cap does not completely contact the plug, the en gine may falter and cut out at high en gine speeds. Install each plug cap onto the correct spark plug. Press the cap onto the spark plug and rotate the as- sembly slightly in both directions.

Low idle speed or prolonged idling. Carbon fouled 3. Ignition component failure. Soft, dry, sooty deposits covering the entire firing 4. Spark plug heat range too cold. This condition is commonly caused by a spark plug with a heat range that is too hot.

If the spark plug heat range is correct, consider the following causes: 1. Improperly operating ignition component. Start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature, then turn the engine off. Securely support the bike on a level surface. See A, Fig- ure 30 and B, Figure Remove the oil filler cap D, Figure 9 and in- sert a funnel into the oil filler hole. Attach an auxiliary fuel tank to the carburetor. Start the engine and let it warm up.

With the engine running at the idle speed listed in Table 5, check the gauge readings. The vacuum pressure at each cylinder must be within the range specified in Table 5. Rev the engine a couple of times to see if it set- tles down to the set speed. Readjust as necessary. Shut off the engine and disconnect the portable tachometer.

Throttle Cable Adjustment Always check the throttle cables before making any carburetor adjustments. Do not use chain lube to lubricate the cables. If necessary, refer to Throttle Cable Adjustment in this chapter. NOTE The main cause of cable breaking or cable stiffness is improper lubrica Insert the nozzle of the lubricant can into the lu- bricator Figure 40 , press the button on the can and hold it down until the lubricant begins to flow out of the other end of the cable.

The swing arm must be removed to service the bearings. Refer to Chapter Twelve. Securely support the motorcycle on a level sur- face. Remove the battery cover as described in Chap- ter Fourteen. Disconnect the negative cable A, Figure 46 from the battery. Pull back the boot and disconnect the positive cable B, Figure NOTE Some maintenance chargers can be used while the battery is connected to the motorcycle. Install the battery into the motorcycle as de- scribed in this chapter.

New Battery Initialization Always replace a maintenance free battery with another maintenance free battery. Also make sure the battery is charged completely before installing it. Failure to do so will reduce the life of the battery. Check with the dealership on the type of pre-service that the battery received. Page 76 Figure 49 as described in Chapter Ten. Nonetheless, it is a good practice to change the fork oil once a year.

If the fork oil be- comes contaminated with dirt or water, change it immediately. The front fork makes a clicking or clunking noise when the front brake is applied. The steering feels tight or slow. The motorcycle does not want to steer straight on level road surfaces. Inspection 1. Securely support the motorcycle so that the front tire clears the ground. The third position is the default setting. The different adjuster ranges are: soft No.

Check the brake hoses between the master cylin- der and each brake caliper. If there is any leak, tighten the connections and bleed the brakes as de- scribed in Chapter Thirteen. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. Look into the caliper assembly and inspect the wear indicators Figure Replace both pads in the caliper if either pad is worn to the wear limit. On the front brakes, replace both pads in both front calipers if any pad is worn to the wear limit.

Check the end of the brake pushrod. It must be visible through the hole C, Figure 64 in the clevis. Air filter cover bolts — Brake pedal height adjuster locknut — Cam sprocket cover bolts — Clutch adjuster locknut — Final gearcase drain bolt — Final gearcase oil filler bolt — The This includes the camshafts, valves, cylinder heads, wet-plate clutch is located on the right side of the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder blocks.

Page 87 7. Remove the timing cover A, Figure 8 and fly- wheel nut cover B from the alternator cover. The Yamaha sheave holder part No. Cylinder head nut Gasket 2. Cylinder head cover bracket Rear cylinder head 3. Cylinder head cap nut Exhaust valve cover 4. Washer Exhaust manifold 5.

Cylinder bolt Manifold nut 6. Valve cover bolt Front cylinder head 1. Cam sprocket 2. Cam sprocket plate 3. Washer 4. Cam sprocket bolt 5. Cylinder head bolt Breather plate 6. Take a photograph or make a drawing so you can correctly time the camshaft during assembly. When servicing the rear cylinder, set it to top dead center on the compression stroke as follows: a.

Use the flywheel nut to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the T-mark on the flywheel A, Figure 9 aligns with the cutout in the al- ternator cover B. Make sure the timing mark on the front cam sprocket plate A, Figure 12 aligns with the pointer on the front cylinder head B. Tie a safety wire around the cam chain and se- cure the wire to the engine so the chain will not fall into the crankcase. Loosen the fasteners in sequence by reversing the tightening sequence shown in Fig- ure If necessary, remove the intake manifold and its O-ring from the cylinder head.

NOTE An exhaust manifold is not used on the front cylinder. If necessary, remove the two manifold nuts A, Figure 19 and remove the exhaust manifold B from the rear cylinder. If the chain is not held taut, the chain may become kinked, and cause damage to the crankcase, the cam chain and timing sprocket. The timing mark on the cam sprocket B, Figure 14 should align with the pointer on the cylinder head C as noted during removal.

If the timing marks do not align, remove the sprocket. If removed, install the exhaust manifold B, Figure 19 onto the rear cylinder. Page 97 Thread insert kits can be purchased at automotive supply stores or they can be installed at a Yamaha dealership. After all carbon is removed from the combustion chambers and valve ports, clean the entire head in solvent. Remove the cylinder head as described in this chapter. Unthread the camshaft bushing retainer bolt A, Figure 36 and remove the retainer B.

Turn a mm bolt into the camshaft, and pull the camshaft and bushing A, Figure 37 from the cylinder head. Rocker shaft bolt 2. Washer 3. Rocker shaft 4. Adjuster locknut 5. Valve adjuster 6. Rocker arm 7. Cylinder head 8. Camshaft 9. Pin Bushing Bushing retainer Retainer bolt bushing is severely worn, inspect the bushing bore 4. Replace the cam- shaft if a lobe is worn beyond the service limits specified in Table 2. Measure the camshaft runout with a dial indica- tor and V-blocks. Slide hammer bolt 8 mm : YU or Inspect the rocker arms and shafts as described in this section.

Unless a part is being replaced, install each rocker arm with its original shaft, and install them in their original locations intake or exhaust side in the cylinder head. Page Removal Rear Cylinder The cam chain and cam chain drive assembly can be removed with the fly The Yamaha sheave holder part No. YS wheel installed. However, the fly or , or its equivalent, is required to wheel must be removed for cam perform this procedure.

These marks must be aligned during assembly. Remove the retainer bolt A, Figure 55 and slide the retainer B from the slots on the cam chain drive assembly shaft. CAUTION An oil slot Figure 56 in the end of the drive assembly shaft collects oil that lubricates the shaft and bushing in the cam chain drive assembly. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the drive teeth on the gear until one set of teeth aligns with the other.

Insert the 6-mm pin Figure 58 into the aligned hole to lock the gear. Remove the front cylinder head as described in this chapter. Remove the front chain guide by lifting it from its seat in the crankcase and pulling it from the cam chain tunnel in the cylinder.

Rear chain guide 9. Woodruff key 2. Chain guide bolt Primary drive nut 3. Cam chain drive assembly Lockwasher 4. Cam chain Keyed washer 5. Front chain guide Timing gear 6. Retainer bolt Preload the cam chain drive assembly as follows: a. Page The following procedures describe how Top view to check valve components and determine the needed service.

A valve spring compressor Yamaha part No. YM or , or equivalent, is needed to remove and install the valves. Insert a bore protector between the valve assem- bly and the bore. Install a valve spring compressor squarely over the valve retainer. Make sure the opposite end of the com- pressor rests against the valve head. Label the set so you will know what cylinder it came from and whether it is an in take or an exhaust valve. This keeps parts from getting mixed up and makes installation simpler.

Do not mix components from different valve assemblies or excessive wear may occur. Compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor and install the valve keepers Figure Page This procedure requires the following special tools lapping with fine carborendum paste, however, lap- and should be entrusted to a Yamaha dealership or ping is inferior to precision grinding. Install new circlips onto the new valve guides, and place the valve guides in a freezer overnight.

Remove and discard the valve guide and circlip. Never reinstall a valve guide or circlip. They are no longer true and are not within tolerance. After the cylinder head cools, check the guide bore for carbon or other contamination. Clean the bore thoroughly. Reface the valve seats as described in this chap- ter. Install the intake manifold. When servicing a rear cylinder head, install the exhaust manifold with a new exhaust gasket.

The following procedure is provided if you choose to perform this task yourself. Check the seat by performing the leakage test described in the Cylinder Head section earlier in this chapter. If fluid leaks past any of the seats, disassemble that valve assembly and repeat the lapping procedure Valve lapper until there are no leaks. Cylinder bolt 2. Cylinder 3. Compression ring 4 Oil ring 5. Piston pin circlip 6. Piston 7. Base gasket 8. Dowel 9. Front cam chain guide Piston pin Follow the break-in procedure in Chapter Five if the cylinder block was rebored or honed, or if a new piston or piston rings were installed.

Inspection The following procedure requires the use of highly specialized and costly measuring instru- ments. Remove the cylinder head and cylinder as de- scribed in this chapter. Lightly mark the top of the piston front or rear so it can be installed in the correct cylinder during installation.

Do not drive out the piston pin. This could damage the pis- ton pin, connecting rod or piston. Remove the piston from the connecting rod and remove the remaining circlip from the piston. Dis- card both piston pin circlips. Install the second piston pin circlip Figure into the groove in the piston.

Check the piston skirt B, Figure for gall- ing and abrasion, which may have been caused by Specified distance piston seizure. If a piston shows signs of partial sei- zure bits of aluminum build-up on the piston skirt , replace the piston to reduce the possibility of engine noise and further piston seizure. Measure the inside diameter of the piston pin bore in the piston with a small bore gauge Figure Calculate piston pin-to-piston clearance by sub- tracting the piston pin outside diameter from the piston pin bore inside diameter.

If the clearance is outside the range specified in Table 2, replace the piston pin if the piston bore inside diameter is within specification. Inspect the grooves carefully for burrs, nicks or broken and cracked lands. Recondition or replace the piston if necessary. Roll each ring around its piston groove as shown in Figure to check for binding. Minor binding may be cleaned up with a fine-cut file. Install the oil control ring assembly into the bot- tom ring groove.

Displacement cc Compression ratio 8. Service limit mm in. Valve head diameter Intake Exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts rear cylinder — Flywheel nut — Intake manifold bolts — Oil delivery pipe banjo bolt — Primary drive nut — Rear chain guide bolt — External gearshift mechanism. Crankcase assembly. Connecting rods. Alternator and starter clutch. Frame 8. Engine bracket lower Engine bracket upper 2. Cylinder head bracket bolt through bolt through bolt 3.

Front frame member nut 9. Upper rear engine Rear frame member bolt 4. Rear engine through bolt mounting bolt Page Removal are no longer in place. Remove the cylinder head covers from each engine from the frame. Though this is cylinder head Chapter Four. Note that the bolt with two oil holes B, Figure 5 se cures the oil pipe to the cylinder head. Remove the removable frame member as follows: a. Remove the nuts from the upper frame mem- ber bolts Figure 13 and remove the bolts.

Remove the lower frame member bolts B, Figure 3 and lift the removable frame mem- ber from the frame. Page While the engine is removed for service, check all of the frame engine mounts for cracks or other damage. If any cracks are detected, take the chassis assembly to a Yamaha dealership for further exami- nation.

Installation Install the front engine bracket as follows: 1. Install the starter, speed sensor and horn Chap- ter Nine. Route the oil level switch wire A, Figure 3 along the path noted during removal and connect the bullet connector to its harness mate. Install the right and left side covers, toolbox panel, frame neck covers and the sidestand Chapter Fourteen. Dowel 2. Gasket 3. Wire clamp 4. Stator mounting bolt 6. Alternator cover 7. Alternator cover bolt Remove the sidestand, toolbox cover and right side cover Chapter Fourteen.

Roll the boot on the toolbox panel from the elec- trical connectors. Disconnect the three-pin stator connector A, Figure 21 and the two-pin pickup coil connector B from their respective mates on the wiring harness. Page See Chapter Nine for stator and pickup coil re- moval and inspection procedures.

Sheave holder: part No. YS or Bolt 9. Timing gear 2. One-way clutch housing Snap ring 3. One-way clutch Flywheel Bearing 5. Starter wheel gear 6. Nut Starter idler gear assembly 7. If the timing mark on the rear cam sprocket does not align with the pointer on the rear head, rotate the engine one turn clockwise. Remove the alternator cover as described in this chapter. NOTE Install the sheave holder so it sits completely flat against the flywheel.

If necessary, lift the timing gear A, Figure 35 from the back of the flywheel. Remove each pin and spring Figure 36 from the slots in the flywheel. Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring Figure Position the flywheel so the two marked teeth A, Figure 41 align with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft.

If either part is worn or dam aged, replace the starter clutch assembly. The one-way clutch is faulty if it fails either test. Replace the starter clutch assembly. Inspect the teeth A, Figure 48 of the starter wheel gear. Replace the gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. Inspect the bearing surface B, Figure 48 of the starter wheel gear for nicks or scratches. Replace the wheel gear if it shows signs of wear.

If necessary, remove the oil delivery pipe mount- ing bolt C, Figure 53 at each end of the pipe, and remove the oil delivery pipe D from the crank- case. Watch for the O-ring Figure 54 behind the fitting on each end of the pipe.

Primary body 2. Oil strainer 3. Indexing pin 4. Outer rotor 5. Inner rotor 6. Secondary body 7. Outer rotor 8. Inner rotor 9. Drive pin Pump shaft Snap ring Oil pump cover Turn the pump over and lift the primary pump body Figure 59 from the pump. NOTE This pump has two sets of rotors: a thick set that fits in the primary body and a thin set for the secondary body. Keep each set of rotors together with its respective body.

Remove the shaft Figure 67 from the pump cover. Assembly 1. Coat all parts with fresh oil prior to assembly. Install the pump shaft Figure 67 into the pump cover. The end with the holes enters from the out- board side of the cover. Clean all parts in solvent and dry them thor- oughly with compressed air. Inspect the primary body A, Figure 68 for cracks and inspect the primary body rotors B for wear or abrasion.

Inspect the strainer C, Figure 68 for tears or other damage that will allow contaminants into the pump. Page If necessary, replace the chain along with both the drive and driven sprocket. Crankcase separating tool part No. YUA or Remove the mounting screw, and lift the shift also indicate the crankcase bolt tight ening sequence. See Figure Before removing the crankcase bolts, draw an outline of each case half on a piece of cardboard. These bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations during as sembly.

Remove the two dowels A Figure 77 from the crankcase mating surface. Remove the O-ring and its short collar B, Figure 77 from the boss beneath the crank- shaft. Remove the O-ring from the crankcase mat- ing surface above the middle drive shaft. Page Install each shift fork with the letter tools are not available, have a facing up toward the right side of the Yamaha dealership or other qualified engine.

Install the left shift fork into the countershaft 4. Page Do not add so much oil that it will drip from the bearing when the case half is turned over. Apply a light coat of Yamaha Bond No. ACC or or on equivalent sealant to the mating surface of the left crankcase half. Turn the crankcase over and install the left crankcase bolts.

If there is any binding, stop and correct the cause before proceeding. Before heating the crankcase, remove the middle drive shaft assembly and middle driven shaft as- sembly Chapter Seven. Do Puller not heat the crankcase with a torch.

Connecting rod 2. Connecting rod bolt 3. Connecting rod bearing 4. Main bearing 5. Oil pump drive sprocket 6. Crankshaft 7. Nut 8. If the side clearance is still outside the specified range, replace the crankshaft. Use V-blocks and a dial gauge to check the crankshaft runout Figure If the runout ex- ceeds the specification in Table 1, replace the crankshaft. The connecting rod must be installed so this side faces the left crankshaft end the tapered end.

Install rod and cap. Be sure the weight marks Figure 99 on the side of the rod and cap align. Between to miles km of for further service. Alternator cover bolts — Connecting rod nuts — Crankcase stud 10 mm — 12 mm — Crankcase bolts 6 mm — 10 mm — Engine mounting hardware Cylinder head bracket bolts — Replace any part that is dam- Refer to Figure 1.

Oil filter cover bolt 8. Clutch cover bolt 2. Oil filter outer cover 9. Wire clamp 3. Air filter housing bracket O-ring 4. Cap bolt Clutch cover 5. Cap Gasket 6. Install the wire clamps behind the bolts A, Figure 2 noted during removal.

Apply Yamaha Bond or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the two indicated bolts C, Figure 2. Oil will leak past these bolts if the threads are not sealed. Retaining wire Clutch nut 2. Clutch plate No. Lock plate 3. Clutch boss spring Clutch spring bolt 4. Plate seat Spring plate 5. Clutch boss Clutch spring 6.

Remove the pressure plate B, Figure Remove the washer Figure 11 and the release bearing Figure 12 from pushrod No. Remove pushrod No. However, do not use a steel washer. Steel will damage the gear teeth. If a clutch holder is not available, stuff a shop cloth, copper penny, or brass washer Figure 18 between the primary drive gear and the primary driven gear on the clutch housing.

Lift the other end from the hole and remove the retaining wire from the clutch hub. Remove clutch plate No. The last item installed should be friction disc. Make sure the marked tab on each friction disc sits in the marked slots on the clutch housing as shown in Figure If necessary, remove the fric- tion discs and clutch plates.

Check the inner splines Figure 30 on the clutch plates. Minor roughness can be cleaned with an oilstone or fine file. If any one plate has excessive roughness or wear, re- place all the clutch plates as a set. They must be smooth for chatter-free operation. If there is any excessive damage, replace the compo- nents.

Inspect the posts B, Figure 32 for wear or galling. If there is any excessive damage, re- place the clutch boss. Pushrod No. O-ring 3. Adjuster 4. Push screw 5. Ball assembly 6. Housing 7. Oil seal 8. Pin 9. Clutch lever Spring 1. Remove the alternator cover as described in Chapter Five. Apply grease to the balls in the ball assembly A, Figure Lower the ball assembly A, Figure 41 onto the push screw B. Seat the balls in the detents. Invert the assembly and install it into the housing on the inboard side of the alternator cover Figure Remove the mounting bolts A, Figure 45 , and pull the clutch adjuster cover B from the alternator cover.

Disconnect the clutch cable Figure 46 from the clutch lever. Pull the clutch cable end from the port in the alternator cover. Before removing the primary drive gear, set the front cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke, The Yamaha sheave holder part No. YU and note the position of the timing or , or an equivalent flywheel holder, marks on the cam sprocket plate and is needed to service the primary drive gear. Remove the cylinder head and the cam chain drive assembly from the front cylinder Chapter Four.

Remove the clutch as described in this chapter. Bend the ears of the lockwasher A, Figure 50 away from the primary gear nut. Push the springs as far apart as possible. Install the cam chain drive assembly and the cylinder head as described in Chapter Four. Install the clutch as described in this chapter.

Loosen the shift lever clamp bolt B, Figure 2. Remove the footrest bracket bolts Figure 3. Locknut 2. E-clip Shift rod 3. Stopper lever spring Snap ring 4. Stopper lever Shift pedal 5. Collar XVSA models 6. Wave washer 7. Shift shaft spring XVSA models 8. Install the shift lever so the index mark A, Figure 2 on the shift shaft aligns with the slot in the shift lever.

Slide the end of the shift shaft into the crankcase boss B, Figure 6 until the assembly bottoms. The arms of the shift shaft spring C, Figure 4 must straddle the post in the crankcase. Retainer screw 6. Neutral pin 2.

Shift fork shaft 7. Bearing retainer 8. Pin 20 mm 3. Shift fork shaft 9. Pin 16 mm 4. Shift fork Shift cam 5. Check the pins B, Figure 12 and shift cam ramps C for wear. Gear b. Middle drive gear Countershaft first gear Mainshaft fourth gear 3.

Countershaft fourth gear Splined washer 4. Snap ring 5. Splined washer Mainshaft second-third 6. Install fourth gear A, Figure 19 onto the mainshaft, and slide it up against first gear. Make sure the engagement dogs on the gear face away from first gear. Install a splined washer B, Figure 19 and a new snap ring C.

If it is still installed, remove the middle drive gear Figure 23 from the countershaft. Remove first gear, then remove fourth gear. Remove the snap ring and the splined washer. Remove the countershaft third gear. Install first gear Figure 30 so its flat side faces out. Install the middle drive gear Figure 23 so its splines engage those on the countershaft. Mesh both assembled transmission shafts to- gether with the middle driven gear Figure Make sure all gears mate properly.

Have these tools on hand before beginning this procedure. Bearing retainer 2. Spring retainer 3. Spring seat 4. Damper spring 5. Damper cam male 6. Damper cam female 7. Middle drive shaft nut 8. Bearing 9. Middle drive shaft shims Middle drive shaft Apply engine oil to the teeth of the middle drive shaft and install the middle drive shaft assembly into the crankcase.

Turn the bearing retainer A, Figure 40 until it is in place. Inspect the internal splines on the male and fe- male sides of the damper cam. The Yamaha universal joint holder part No. Inspect the damper spring for wear, cracks or YM or , or its equivalent, is damage. Bearing Speed sensor bracket 2. Middle driven shaft Bolt 3. Rotor 4. Collapsible collar Drive yoke 5. Collar Washer 6.

O-ring Middle driven shaft nut 7. Remove the driven yoke C, Figure 46 from the drive yoke B. Hold the drive yoke with the universal joint holder A, Figure 48 and loosen the middle driven shaft nut B. Install the universal joint holder A, Figure 48 onto the drive yoke and install the middle gear backlash band Figure 49 onto the middle drive shaft assembly. Install the bearing housing bolts A, Figure 45 They may also be damaged. Dur- NOTE ing inspection, compare measurements to the speci- During removal, label each hose and fications in the tables at the end of this chapter.

Fuel tank 6. Seat bracket bolt 2. Fuel hose 7. Passenger seat 3. Fuel tank bolt 8. Nut 4. Meter connector 5. Seat bracket 8. Raise the fuel tank bracket and support the tank. Pull the meter connector B, Figure 5 from be- neath the ignitor panel and disconnect the pin meter connector A, Figure 6 from its harness Pull the tank bracket rearward until the tank is free of the damper A, Figure 7 on each side of the frame.

Remove the fuel tank. Installation is the reverse of removal. O-ring 2. Fuel valve body 3. Clamp 4. Fuel hose 5. Valve packing 6. Valve seal 7. Lever 8. Wave washer 9. Plate Pan head screw Screw 3. Drain the fuel from the tank into a clean, sealable b. Cover bolt Surge tank base Air filter housing 2. Air filter cover Air filter housing bracket lower 3. Air filter Air filter housing duct Cylinder head 4. Remove the cover bolts A, Figure 10 and pull the air filter cover B from the housing.

Lift the air filter A, Figure 11 from the posts in the air filter housing. Loosen the clamp B, Figure 11 that secures the surge tank duct to the back of the air filter housing. Yamaha V Star Classic. Steel; hidden shock. Telescopic fork. Single shock. Double disc. Single disc. With a seat only Classic rigid-look rear end serves up 4. Special Midnight Custom is decked out in shiny Raven paint with flames and blacked-out components throughout. Thick cylinder cooling fins enhance the stylish look while increasing cooling efficiency.

Long, A flat, drag-style one-inch handlebar reinforces the custom performance theme. Narrow tire on an inch spoked front wheel looks the part, while a inch fatty out back under a kicked-up fender completes the look. Additional Features: Low-profile split tandem seat and passenger pillion are comfortable and stylish.

Industry-leading Star Family fit and finish features rich, lustrous paint and extensive chrome accents that create a timeless machine. Yamaha V Star Custom. Candy Red, Raven - Midnight Custom. Bore x Stroke. Compression Ratio. Max Power. Max Torque. Front Suspension. Rear Suspension. Link-type, preload-adjustable single rear shock with mm wheel travel.

Front Brakes. Rear Brakes. Single mm disc 1 piston caliper. Front Tyre. Rear Tyre. Seat Hieght. Fuel Capacity. Roomy and beautiful soft-leather saddlebags provide storage for long-range adventures.

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XVS 1100 or V-Star 1100 Reveal, Ride and Review

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