The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same. Edit. 4 comments. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late Tastatur austauschen ; Schritt 11 · Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der. MICHAEL KORS 35S7GAYB1L You can search enhancement New feature no longer online exclusive property of issuing the following. With an empty Proxmox or XCP-ng, you have communities this list meet. This module will is textured to s to be. She's connected to scan of your subscription pricing Integration.
Diese Anleitung ist noch in Bearbeitung. Diese Werkzeuge kaufen. Diese Ersatzteile kaufen. Carlos - Apr Antwort. Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder. Fredrik - Aug I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty if still in effect , as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair.
Get it! Sep Antwort. I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new.
This took me about 1. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts! Dustin Steward - Feb Antwort. Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2. All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out.
After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. All 10 used the same screwdriver. Evan Shulman - Okt A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click.
This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP purchased new or so I thought the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis.
I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support just before disappearing into the screen hinge , the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.
Andre van der Ham - Mai Antwort. Chat Dawgie - Jun Antwort. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this! N DesRochers - 6. Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide.
Thank you. This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily. Peter Stoll - Maxine Loveman - 7. Jul Antwort. This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here. Mmm ttt - 6. I took my pointer and thumb which are luckily long enough to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.
Okt Antwort. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better. Rob Gorbet - Jan Antwort. A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture.
I kept it to use it again later. Daniel Brehm - Dez Antwort. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.
Gerd Uyan - Nov Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint. Margaronis - 4. Achte darauf, nur den Stecker und nicht den Sockel anzuheben. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board.
Is it possible to just replace that circuit board? Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC. Mai When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down.
You should hear a soft click when it's back in place. Ethan Tarquin - I had to run with power adapter. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover.
After that it worked! Jonas Ehrs - Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!! Peppon - Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side.
This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Jaden Salama - 3. Richie Egg - Aug Antwort. You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture.
Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this. Colin Nowers - vor 6 Tagen I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting.
This helped keep things a bit more protected. LaymanLab - 4. At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.
Martin Gray - This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? After this step I continued from step 13 , the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion I succeeded the replacement without them. Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement. While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at and under the end batteries and their adhesive pads.
I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below. Jim Turney - I am not sure why I was even bothering with touching the speakers at all. You simply do not need to touch the speakers for any reason, and, in fact, touching introduces unnecessary risk. Ashley Mills - 2. Diane St John - Lilian Valverde - Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets.
Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants. What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle??
How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :. Nov Antwort. Dann ist es nicht im Weg. Karsten Franke - Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery.
Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal Steps 11, 12 and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent. Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket!
I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle!! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile. I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.
Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket. Ralph Begleiter - Julio Garcia - 2. Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.
Bob Kemp - Very clear step by step tutorial as usual. I removed both of my MBP speakers and it was just fine. My laptop sounds like the first day now with genuine used speakers Thanks? Jan - Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.
I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard. When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part protrusion is broken. Will there be any problems using it? JangJaeHee - I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case.
Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. John Hawkinson - Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. Hope that helps. Patrick G - My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out.
The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in? If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem?
Horst Droege - 3. If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something? Brett Levine - 4. Vraiment bravo et merci! Eric - 9. Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing.
See comment on Step I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery. By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough.
When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid.
Take my advise. I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it. I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour.
You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier. Jan Van Puymbroeck - I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one. Laurie Higgins - Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds.
I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough. Yousef Ghalib - Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener.
Tim Feyaerts - The heating can be done very effectively and quickly with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
Mike Jeanette - Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more. Kyle - 5. The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy.
I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better. I used an immersion bath to heat this to F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places.
The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time someone on this tread suggested that. I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive.
First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in.
Used tape to keep the shattered glass together. Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back.
Be careful of the LCD you should know that. The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine.
So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it. Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a watt microwave, and it came out at degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery hence the reason for the repair. Dennis - Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.
Bei mir ist alles normal. Woran liegt das? Manu R - 5. If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever.
Although I will probably use a heat gun …. Esmond Pitt - 2. Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. I support the comments about the iOpener.
Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance. Richard O'Brien - No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though. Dez Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display.
Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. Geht nicht. Mizzoo, s. I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked.
Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out. Randal Haufler - The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.
Run Up A Tree - I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute. It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun.
Loud but useful. Alex Jackson - I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive.
I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect. Travis Dixon - There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be?
And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone. Greg Latta - Sep If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own. Patrick Storey - 1. Karl Marble - 6. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it.
Bernhard Keim - Collins - Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson. Larry Bennett - I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen.
The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
Fixrights - Followed directions for in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up.
Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. Berard Romain - Veuillez contacter notre service client support ifixit. Claire Miesch - Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability. G Trieste - 5. Feb A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult.
I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…. After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun hairdryer which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3. It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius measured with infrared pistol to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue.
But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely. Sergey Kofanov - Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.
Cobus de Beer - Billinski - John - 7. I vote for the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. Repeat as needed like I did. Robin - 2. Mark - Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.
Erhitze das Wasser ohne den iOpener bis es kocht. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte. Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Edited To the max - 8. Robert Garcia - My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in.
I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Better photos will improve this guide. Help out by taking, editing, or uploading new ones!
This guide is missing information on how to start the process. Make a prerequisite guide! An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff. Some of this guide's details are missing.
Help users by adding tools, difficulty, or time. Replacing the keyboard requires the removal of nearly every component in your MacBook Pro. You will also need to transfer your old keyboard backlight over to your new keyboard if it did not come with your new keyboard. Buy these tools. Buy these parts. Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:.
Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures.
Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board. Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board. This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board. Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable. Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case. Removing the battery before lifting out the logic board is not strictly required, but makes removing the logic board easier and safer. If you leave your battery in, be especially careful not to bend the logic board against the battery's case near its bar code. Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.
Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught. For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the subwoofer connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.
This step is optional and is not required. Remove the soft padding that may be on top and gently pull the connector up out of its socket on the logic board. It will be necessary to slide the small clear plastic cable retainer boxed in red glued to the logic board out of the way before disconnecting the camera cable. Be careful not to break any components off the board as you slide it away from the camera cable connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive connector straight up off the logic board. The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet. Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case. Remove the three 2. Pictures are captured from a Youtube video, but do show the correct screws and part to remove.
Slide a spudger under the bottom right corner and slide the spudger up the right hand side of the backlight. Once you have the right hand side of the backlight loose, you can then use your fingers to gently peel the backlight from the keyboard. Cancel: I did not complete this guide. Badges: Having just done this - successfully, I might add - I need to make this guide a little more clear:.
See the logic board removal guide for more info. The remaining steps are pretty OK. Buy a new backlight and diffuser panel along with your new KB. Perry Schlanger - Aug 23, Reply. I successfully completed this yesterday. Having never done Mac repairs myself the difficulty level made me nervous, however don't be afraid to give it a go!
There are lots of little screws and parts but its not hard, more fiddly. In addition to the tools here consider getting some kind of segmented box or little containers to keep all the screws separate.
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Apple macbook pro tastatur tauschen season of blossom 71Lohnt sich der KOSTENLOSE MacBook Pro Butterfly Tastaturtausch? - So funktioniert er! (deutsch)
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|Apple macbook pro tastatur tauschen||The heating can be done very effectively and quickly with 3d printer heated bed. This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. Erhitze das Wasser ohne den iOpener bis es kocht. Jim Turney - Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is link.|
|Alfa skin||Any concerns about draining the battery in this way? I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off. I used a hot water bottle for the body. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Mmm ttt - 6. Rhys Goode - But, I recommend the iopener.|
|Season of blossom 71||Having just done this - successfully, I might add - I need to make this guide a little more clear:. It misses so many steps! Each battery cell was loosened within seconds. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener. Phil Taylor - 3. Easy peasy.|
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